Trips

Tues., 7/21/15 – Santa Margherita and Cinque terra
            Today was a day on our own but the suggestion was to take the train and visit Cinque terra.  There are five small seaside towns in five kilometers and many hikers hike or walk from one town to the next over very steep terrain.  It was another stinking hot, breathless day and we just looked at the harbor at Vernazza and the string of private chairs and umbrellas all along Monterosso.

            We walked two blocks from our hotel to the train station to take the 8:29 train.  It was late (8:52) and very crowded.  Our car was not air conditioned, which is why we found seats.  There was a small, dark, unadorned church at Vernazza and a few shops.  We sat and looked at the water until the 10:20 train to Monterosso. 

Cinque Terra region

 

Vernazza - market

 

Vernazza - market

 

Vernazza - Church of Santa Margherits d’Antiochia

Vernazza - Church of Santa Margherits d’Antiochia

 

Vernazza - Church of Santa Margherits d’Antiochia

 

Vernazza - small engine repair

Vernazza - poster of 2011 flood

 

            On October 25, 2011 flooding from a freak rainstorm devastated the town of Vernazza, one of the five villages that make up the celebrated Cinque Terre in Liguria . Rivers of water and mud cascaded down the steep and narrow streets, burying the town’s lowest levels in as much as 13 feet of debris, while also overwhelming the railroad tracks that provided the primary way in or out of Vernazza. (Part of the Cinque Terre’s allure is that four of its cliff-hugging villages are accessible only by train, boat, or hiking trail.)

            The town has made a remarkable recovery from this devastating flood.

 

Vernazza

 

Vernazza - train entering one of the many tunnels

Vernazza

 

            Monterosso is a larger town but still had not much to do except swim, sunbath or shop.  Twenty-one of us joined Valentina at a restaurant for lunch.  It took all of our time.  We walked back to the train station and waited for our train that was an hour late. 

 

Monterosso

 

Monterosso

Monterosso

Monterosso

 

 

Wed., 7/22/15 – Santa Margherita to Verona to Bolzano
            We left Santa Margherita and drove up the coast toward Genoa through many tunnels.  Every time we came out of a tunnel we looked down on our left at another small village with a tiny harbor and beach. 
            It was 100° when we got to Verona for our walking tour. Verona is another old Roman city.  The old part is laid out on a Roman grid of streets with city walls and gates and the Adige River running around and through it.                 
           We entered the old town with our local guide through the Porta Borsari where the tax collectors once operated.  We walked to a plaza that once was the Roman Forum.  Some of the houses have frescoes on their exterior walls.
            Verona was severely damaged during WWII.  The Nazis killed many of the Jewish merchants of the city.  We walked past a synagogue.  There is still a Jewish community in Verona.
            We walked to Juliet’s house to see the courtyard and famous balcony.  The entry portico is full of lovers’ graffiti and notes stuck on the wall with gum.  The statue of Juliet in the courtyard has shiny breasts from lovers touching them “for the sake of love.”  Shakespeare never visited Verona but wrote Romeo and Juliet, Taming of the Shrew, and Two Gentlemen of Verona, which are all set here.  The Montague family was real and a powerful noble family in Verona but Juliet’s family name was Capello and not Capulet.

 

Verona

 

Verona - the River Adige

Verona - Porta Borsari

Verona

 

Verona - Piazza dei Signori

 

Verona

Verona - Piazza dei Signori

Verona - Whale rib means the markets sell anything you want

 

Verona - Synagogue

Verona - entrance to Juliet’s House

 

Verona - The Balcony

 

Verona - Ghibelline crenelations or merlons - non-papal supporters

            We walked to the Verona Roman Arena.  It was built in 1 AD and is one of the most complete ones in the world.  It is now used for opera performances.  The arena used to seat 30,000 people and was used for bloody gladiator battles and killing of animals.  It never was used for little naval battles.  Now it seats 15,000 because the opera stage takes over half of the arena.  Outside the arena was scenery from several operas.
            We had 45 minutes of free time at 104° F so Marge and I sat at an outdoor table in the shade and enjoyed a large beer and a glass of ice water.  It was very refreshing.

 

Verona - opera festival in honor of Maria Callas?

 

Verona - Roman Arena

 

Verona - Roman Arena

Verona - opera sets

Verona - opera sets

 

Verona - Roman Arena

 

Verona - view with a cold beer in hand!

Verona

 

            We were back on our bus by 3:30 and headed to Bolzano.  The landscape changed to apple orchards and vineyards and steep, but low, rocky mountains.  Very different landscape and very pretty.

 

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