Trips

Thurs., 7/23/15 – Bolzano
            (The following is very interesting, but if you aren't a history person, you may want to skip it.)
           We started this morning with a lecture on the history of South Tyrol by a local professor, Leonard, who is German but married to an Italian.  South Tyrol is an autonomous region of the country of Italy.  All of Tyrol was once part of the Austro-Hungarian Empire.  In 1861 when the united Italy included all Italian-speaking people, the southern portion of Tyrol became part of Italy.  The middle region contained both Italian and German speakers, and the north was all German.  After WWI Italy, which supported the winning side, kept South Tyrol, Austria got North Tyrol, and the middle remained with Austria because 90% were German.  Fascist Italy wanted the middle section, which contained the watershed of the Adige River, which flows south into Italy.  The region is referred to as Alto Adige.  The philosophy and goal of Fascism was to create the new Roman Empire and conquer land in North Africa and Tyrol.  Th1922 the Fascists changed town, street, and people’s surnames from German to Italian.  Even names on tombstones were changed.  Schools were not just teaching only in Italian but also became military prep schools.  This lasted for 20 years – one whole generation.  German language and culture was taught in illegal “catacomb” schools.  In 1930, Fascists brought heavy industry to Bolzano and brought in Italians to work there and dilute the remaining German population.  In 1938 the Third Reich annexed Northern Tyrol because they still spoke German so Mussolini was to the south and Hitler to the north.  In 1938 Alto Adige (middle Tyrol) made the mistake of voting 85% to choose Germany and Hitler instead of Fascism.  40,000 men joined the Nazi army in 1939.  From 1942 to 1945, when the Mussolini regime fell to Germany, Italians here were sent to concentration camps along with Jews.  After WWII Alto Adige was given by treaty back to Italy but the German peasants were not happy.  In 1961 the peasants blew up 200 electricity towers (Fire Night) and the Italian democratic army invaded to put down the rebellion.  A UN commission devised a solution.  Both sides wrote out what they objected to and what they wanted.  A deal was proposed and 50.4% voted to accept the deal: i.e., the border between Italy and Austria will be the watershed line; Alto Adige will be autonomous but ruled by Italy; there are two school systems, one Italian and one German and both will teach the other language as a second language; all holders of government jobs from mayor to street cleaners have to pass a bilingual test; roads built prior to WWI to peasant farms must be maintained by Italy; names would revert to the original family names; towns and street signs are to be listed in three languages – German, Italian and the local Liden.  A big concession was that those who joined Hitler’s army during the war were given back their Italian citizenship if they wanted to return to Tyrol.
            Italy now has five autonomous regions: Sardinia, Sicily, Trentino-Alto Adige, Aosta Valley and Friuli-Venezia Giulia.  Sicily is Italy’s Greece where the unemployment rate is 60%.
            This was an excellent presentation.

            Our local guide arrived and we went on a walking tour with Luciano.  We walked the cobbled streets to the Town Hall and its square and then down the market street where merchants once paid tolls.  We walked into Grain Square with the weigh house to tally the tithe on the grain that was to be paid to the ruling Bishop.  The town Cathedral is in the main square, Walther Square.  It is a gothic structure and has a geometrically patterned tile roof.  In the square is a statue of Walther von der Vogelweide, a 12 c. minstrel of love stories.                      
            We walked up through the flower and fruit markets.  It was very colorful and very busy.

Bolzano and surroundings from our hotel window

 

Bolzano and surroundings from our hotel window

 

This banner made us feel right at home!

 

Bolzano - street scene

 

Bolzano - the weigh house

Bolzano - nice sign

 

Bolzano - market

Bolzano - Assumption of Our Lady Cathedral and Walther Square

 

Bolzano - Assumption of Our Lady Cathedral

Bolzano - Assumption of Our Lady Cathedral Bell Tower

 

Bolzano - Statue of Walther von der Vogelweide - a German lyric poet

Bolzano

 

Bolzano

Bolzano - Market

Bolzano - Market

 

Bolzano - Market

Bolzano - Sign

 

 

            Our walk ended at the South Tyrol Museum of Archaeology, which has one important inhabitant, Otzi, the Iceman.  He was discovered in 1991.  For 5,300 years he was frozen in ice and snow, which preserved him and his clothes and tools.  His mummified body is displayed in a refrigerated cell and is viewed through a window.  His clothing and tools are very fascinating as are the explanations of the science and technology used to study him. 

 

Otzi, the Iceman

Bolzano

 

            After lunch on our own – pizza bread and a Bavarian pretzel, we took the optional tour by cable car and old train to Collabo up in the Renon/Ritten Mountains.  The cable car ran from Bolzano up the steep Renon Mountain to a two-car train and many hiking trails.  From the top of the cable car ride we looked back down on the small villages and pastures of hay and grapevines.  The little electric train took us to the town of Collabo.  We walked around a little but there was not much to see.  The Hotel Bemelmans Post in the town center is a place Sigmund Freud liked to stay and enjoy the mountain scenery.

 

Cable cars

Looking back down the mountain

 

Looking back down the mountain

 

Looking back down the mountain

Interesting church

 

Cable car arriving at the top

The Dolomites - our first view

The Train

 

Collabo - cute sculpture

Collabo - cute sculpture

 

Collabo - bee and sunflower

Collabo - bee on flower

 

Collabo - keeping snow off the roof

 

Collabo - Hotel Bemelmans Post

The Dolomites

 

Collabo

 

Collabo - cemetery

 

 

           Our bus met us in Collabo and drove us to a 600-year-old farmhouse that is now a honey museum.  The old farmhouse remains as it was when two old sisters last occupied it.  They had no electricity or running water.  It was like a preserved medieval dwelling with a straw roof, stable below, and living area above.  It was not really very pleasant.
            We got to taste many of the different flavors of honey that are made here.  The flavor depends on which flower or herb the bees in that hive tend to frequent.  We bought “sommenbloumer honig” (sunflower honey butter). It is pleasantly sweet. 

 

Honey farm

 

Honeycomb

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