Trips

Mon., 7/7/14 – Strasbourg, France and Alsace
            At 8:15 we got onto a canal boat that had docked in front of our ship in Strasbourg, France where we had arrived at 3:30 AM.  There was commentary on the canal ride but without knowing much French history we could not appreciate all of the buildings we went past.  We did learn that Gutenberg built and operated his first printing press on this old island city of Strasbourg.  The secondary seat of the EU is here as well as a large university, large churches, and many museums.
            After an hour ride around and through the canals and up a lock and down a lock so narrow our sightseeing boat just barely fit, we got off in the island of Old Town and met Rebecca. 

Flag of France

 

French license plate for Alsace

Canal boat

Traditional Alsatian restaurant

 

Street scene

Half-timbered house

 

       We walked up from the canal to the plaza at the Cathedral Notre Dame.  The carved red sandstone Gothic building is overwhelming!  The tower is 461 feet tall with 332 steps to the top for a view, the facade is crowded with bas relief stories from the Bible, saints, apostles, angels, and ornate spires. Inside there is an the astronomical clock with many functions.

       While walking through the picturesque streets and alleys around the Munster Plaza in Strasbourg, we found the “thin man’s pillar.” Gale had her picture taken going through.  The story is that if a man could not walk through between the pillar and the wall, he was too fat!  Marge thought her backpack would get caught!

 

 

 

Strasbourg Cathedral of Notre Dame

 

Astronomical clock in the Cathedral

 

Astronomical clock in the Cathedral

Maison Kammerzell restaurant - wonderful wood building

 

Maison Kammerzell restaurant - wonderful wood building

Thin man's pillar

 

Street carousel

 

       After lunch we took an optional tour into the wine region of Alsace.  On the way we stopped at Hunawihr to visit the Centre de Reintroduction of storks and swans.  We were given a five-minute introduction to the privately run park and information about storks. 

      Storks are the center of many Alsatian legends; the most famous of course is that storks deliver babies.  Storks migrate from Alsace to North Africa (we saw them in Tunis).  In 1927 there were 150 nesting couples in Alsace; in 1975 there were only 10.  Their disappearance was blamed on: electrocution for nesting on power poles; disappearance of natural habitat (they are carnivorous eating rodents, worms, insects); intoxication from pesticides; and being hunted by starvation plagued African countries – Niger, Senegal, Mauritania.  In 1976 this center was formed.  They take the three to five eggs from a nest on their 7.5 acres and hatch them and take care of them in a nursery.  Some they keep for three years, when they are mature enough to breed but have lost their migratory instinct.  Others are set free with leg bands at age one and they can still remember how to migrate – interesting!  Mature storks have red beaks and legs; youth have black ones.  Today there are almost 400 nesting couples in the Alsace region and both male and female take turns sitting on the eggs.  Their nests are huge and the female is faithful to her nest and adds to it every year.  She is not a faithful partner and gets a new male every year.  The center also has a variety of other animals.

 

Storks

Young storks

 

Mature storks

Stork eggs

 

Feeding the youngsters

 

Turtles sunning

           We then went to the town of Riquewihr.  It is a town that has survived intact through all of the wars in this area for 600 years.  The town wall remains and the two city gates.  Since people all wanted to live inside the protection of the walls and there was no more room to expand, living space grew vertically.  Instead of two or three story half-timber houses, many of these are six and seven stories.  We walked the main cobbled street up to the Torture Tower but did not desire to go into the Torture Museum.  This town was known for its terrible torture methods.  Maybe that is why armies avoided it. 

Decorated half-timbered house

 

Many storied half-timbered house

Street scene

 

Storks nesting

Kugelhopf pans

      These are molds for making a cake-like bread.  The story is that one of the wise men lost his way on his travels home and wandered into the Alsace Region.  He was treated so well by the locals that when he left, he gave them his crown.  That is the shape of the bread pan.

 

Kugelhopf pans for sale

 

Tues., 7/8/14 – In Strasbourg: The Black Forest and Baden-Baden by Coach

      In the afternoon we took the included trip through the Black Forest of Germany to Baden-Baden, a famous German wellness city visited by the rich and famous.  (We did not see any.)  We crossed a bridge from Alsace into Kehl, Germany and rode along agricultural fields and up into the Black Forest.  It began raining this morning and never stopped all day.  The forest is called black because it is so dense with tall evergreens and Linden (sycamore) trees that it is very dark at ground level.  However we were soon in thick wet cloud cover and could only see about ten yards from the bus.  The Romans were here as early as 50 AD.  The word spa comes from the Latin “salus per aquam” – health through water.  The Oos River also runs through town.

 

Flag of Germany

 

German license plate

       We began our walking tour of Baden-Baden with a comfort stop at the Caracalla Baths with two toilets (for each sex) and with 110 people on our three buses it took quite a while to get our business done.  While waiting we stepped into a church to get out of the rain.  It was plain outside but the stained glass windows were abstract masterpieces.
       We finally walked on to the Roman Baths and Ruins Museum and then walked through the touristy part of town.  There is a strong Russian influence in Baden-Baden.  Maybe 30% of the population is Russian.  Both the rich and the poor Russians come here and they are accepted because they bring business and economic benefits.  Dostoyevsky visited here and gambled away his wealth at the casino and then wrote the book, The Gambler.
       We passed the Rathaus that was once a Jesuit monastery and a statue of Otto von Bismarck and through the shopping street.  Then we crossed the Oos River, not more than a stream, and entered the colonnaded Trinkhalle and then went into the lobby of the casino.

Spitalkirghe (church)

 

Roman baths

 

Roman grave marker

Friedrichsbad (baths)

 

Commemorating a Dostoyevsky visit

Chancellor Otto von Bismarck

 

Bust of Kaiser Wilhelm I in front of the Trinkhalle

 

       We were to meet our ship down river from Baden-Baden but the last lock she was to sail through was “broken.”  The barges and riverboats were stacked up.  After phone calls back to our ship and alternatives weighed, our captain turned his boat around and headed upstream to an unnamed, unmanned dock he knew of.  Our buses drove around the lock and after a half hour delivered us to the middle of nowhere to happily see our River Melody not far away.  He came alongside and we all got on.  We were 1 ½ hours late, and were invited to dinner right away.  The chef and crew managed to serve the meal as though there had been no delay.  It was actually an exciting adjustment to our schedule.

 

 

 

Wed., 7/9/14 Worms and to Speyer by Coach
            Sometime last night the captain got our ship through the lock and headed on to his docking place in Worms.  We did not tour Worms but this is where Martin Luther refused to recant his beliefs and said, “Here I stand, I cannot do otherwise.  God help me.” 
              We bussed to Speyer and on arrival our buses could not park in their normal lot.  It was full of carnival rides for the beginning of Bretzel (pretzel) Fest tomorrow.  Instead we got let off at the Old Town Gate.  Speyer is reportedly the inventor of the pretzel.  A monk or bishop wanted to reward the acolytes for their long hours of work and designed bread in a shape of the Holy Trinity – the three loops.  His statue is over the arch at the entrance to the Kaiserdom or Imperial Cathedral and he is holding a pretzel.
 

 

 

 

     It was raining seriously but our guides continued with our walking tour.  From the Town Gate, we walked down Maximilian Strasse with commentary about grocery stores, etc.  We laughed at a bright red plumber’s truck with a painting on the passenger door of a man sitting on a toilet with his pants around his ankles.  It was positioned so that the head and shoulders of whoever sat in the passenger seat looked like he was the one on the toilet.
     We paused to look at the King George Slaying a Dragon statue, a Maypole with the symbols of the local trade guilds, more cute merchant signposts, and, of course, some churches.  There was an interesting statue of a barefoot pilgrim and plaque indicating the Catholic pilgrimage that passes through Speyer.

 

Nice ad

King George Slaying a Dragon

 

Local trade guild symbols

 

       At the Romanesque Kaiserdom Cathedral we looked at the huge font that looked like a huge stone goblet and was filled with free wine when a new bishop was invested.  The cathedral is square and plain but was the seat of power when the bishops had ruling power.  It is the only church with a man with a pretzel in his hand. 

 

Kaiserdom Cathedral

 

Monk with pretzel in his hand

Jacob Spilger - Pilgrim statue

 

Palatine Ways of St. James - historic pilgrimage route

 

       Our group broke up and Rebecca suggested a walk to the Fish Market for those of us who wanted more walking.  Three of us took to a back street and walked to the site where the martyr, Dr. Edith Stein, lectured.  She was a persecuted Jew. 

       At the plaza where the fish market is held there was a funny fountain of a fish, more modern that the rest of the town.  Back on the main street we had to stop at a bakery and sample a bretzel.  They really tasted like Phila. soft pretzels.  However, instead of mustard they split them horizontally and put butter (mit butter) on them.

 

Edith Stein plaque

 

Fish Market sculpture

 

       Our buses arrived back at the Gate and we got back to our ship happy to take off our wet rain clothes and have some hot consume at lunch.  Our afternoon was free time because we chose not to go back into Speyer for the home-hosted coffee klatches.

 

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