Trips

Tues., 12/23/14 – Rapa Nui (Easter Island)
        Today was a very long but wonderful day.  After a buffet breakfast at the lodge looking out at the ocean and the waves breaking on the rocky shore, we boarded our bus to visit Akahana at Vaihu, Ahu Tonariki, Rano Raraku, Te Pito Kura, and Anakena Beach.
        The first visit was to Akahana, Polo’s ancestral village.  He is three-fourths Rapa Nui.  There were the ruins of three ceremonial ahu or platforms.  There were foundations of the houses of the nobles. We all went into an inland cave, probably part of a lava tube, and sat to listen to Polo tell stories his grandfather had told him.  The caves were for the common people to sleep.  Outside was a five stone ring in which a meal would be buried under hot coals to cook.
            The moai each represented a respected chief and he was buried in the ahu (the platform) beneath the stone figure.  The ahu platform was made of black basalt.  The moai statues were carved from brownish volcanic ash and the top notch (the pukao) was made of red scoria. 
            There are about 887 statues on this island.  Only 60 were found to have the top-notch, perhaps it was a later trend to make the statue taller and therefore more important than others.  Each statue has a prominent nose, determined jaw, elongated ears, and arms hanging stiffly at their sides with lengthy fingers extending across the abdomen.  Their demeanor is austere.  Only one statue was found kneeling, the rest are all standing.

Ocean and cave

 

These illustrate how the various ruins were put back together and made to stand

 

House foundation

The ocean was beautiful

Fallen moai

 

Cave

 

Cave

Cave and cooking ring

 

Moai facedown

 

Moai facedown

Someone didn't make it - animal

 

Pukao or topknot

Pukao or topknot

 

Fallen moai

Fallen moai and cave

 

Fallen moai

Vendor at the site

 

Circles of stones - raised gardens

 

Circle of stones - raised garden

 

        Next we were taken to the 15 moai at Ahu Tonariki.  These are the most visited and publicized moai.  They were toppled to the ground when English sailors saw them in the 17th century.  Some were knocked down in tribal warfare.  Some were set upright but knocked down again by the large Chilean earthquake in 1960 and the ensuing tsunami.  The terrace is 400 meters long, the ahu is 200 meters long, and each of the 15 moai has an individual face.  Most of the pukao or top-notches could not be supported by the reconstructed moai and so they are missing or still lying on the ground.
        It was originally thought that the moai were only heads.  After Thor Heyerdahl dug down below one in 1955-56, it was realized that they had bodies with arms at their sides and hands at their bellies.  Heyerdahl’s theories, based on oral histories, that there were long-ear nobles and short-ear commoners is no longer accepted nor is his theory that the islanders sailed from South America.  DNA tests in 2013 show that the original inhabitants came from Pacific Islands to the west.  Heyerdahl also spent time on the island trying to solve the mysteries of how the statues were made and moved and why.

 

Tonariki

 

Method of restoring moai to standing position

We were there

 

A single moai

 

Metate (grinding stone)

Tonariki

 

Moai with Pukao

 

Individual faces

 

Individual faces

Fallen pukao

 

1960 tsunami washed this one away from the group

Rear view

Rear view

 

Rear view

 

Looking across at the cliff of the Raro Raraku crater

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