Trips

Sat., 2/12/11 – Tineghir

            After a beautiful sunrise, we started a very busy and long "Day in the Life of the Berbers" at the Saturday morning animal market.  We parked with the overloaded hay and feed trucks.  It is amazing how much they can overload the front and back of those trucks.  We walked through the hundreds of sheep and goats - the little lambs and kids were so cute.  People bring from one to maybe 10 animals from their herd and bargain and make cash sales with individuals for animals they want usually for breeding purposes.  Then we went to the cow yard where the same was occurring.  We watched them load cows into the back of small pick-up trucks.  Very interesting.

Sunrise over Tineghir

 

Tineghir animal market - we saw lots of trucks on the highways with loads like this

Tineghir animal market

Tineghir animal market - waiting for a buyer

 

Tineghir animal market - morning gossip

 

Tineghir animal market - peek-a-boo

Tineghir animal market - where to next?

 

Tineghir animal market - all-purpose vehicle

       Next we walked among the village valley farm plots.  A farmer pays for the diesel fuel to pump well water onto their plots.  Later we stopped and used a woman's tool to try cutting some alfalfa like she did.  The alfalfa is put onto a shawl and bundled together to carry on her back to her animals.  There were also many almond, date and olive trees in this public farm area.

Irrigation ditch

 

Freshly plowed

Harvesting alfalfa by hand

Phyllis tries it

 

On the way to market

Picking up sticks

 

Date palms

 

Date palm

 

        Across the valley we entered the old town that was ruined and vacated when heavy rains dissolved many of the adobe structures.  In the middle of the old town is a 300 year old Madrasa or school and mosque for Saharan kids.  The bath, dormitory, prayer room and terrace are in fairly good condition and maintained by a caretaker.

Ruins of old town

 

Ruins

Wood ceiling and mud brick walls

 

School

School prayer room

 

Ruins

Dome of mosque

 

Stairs are often a challenge - without the flash, you wouldn't see them

            OAT foundation has two schools in Tineghir.  We stopped at the school for handicapped youth.  The school age children go to public school and all (the oldest is 23) get vocational training in sewing, embroidering, jewelry, ironwork and pottery.  Limited physical therapy is provided mainly to teach the mothers how to help their child.  They have instructors and Peace Corp volunteers to help.

Tineghir from the farm plots - our hotel is the tallest building on the left

 

OAT sponsored school for the handicapped

Jewelry making room

 

        We wandered through the town market where everything was for sale in the small stalls lining the alleys.  The most interesting section was where the artisans had their shops.  Some made sieves for flour and grains, paddles for carding wool, paddles for baking bread in wood ovens, dresses, yarn and textiles, and bellows.  Tineghir is famous for making bellows for wood ovens and stoves.

Street of the woodworkers

 

Wood products

Wood products

 

Brooms

Even the store fronts have elaborate tile work

Tagines cooking lunch

 

Morning tea break

 

Veggies

Bellows - symbol of Tineghir

Street musician

 

       We then visited the OAT foundations boarding school for poor boys (we didn't take any pictures).  The boys range from 12 to 22 and come from very poor families in this area or from semi-nomadic families with no money or who are orphans. The girls' boarding school is a few blocks away.  We toured their facilities and ate lunch in the library with several of the boys (about 15 and 16 years old) and had them practice their English.  They were shy at first but were very accommodating.

 

         Next we drove to Toudgha Gorge. On the way we passed interesting farm and town scenery. At the Gorge we walked a little way along the river. It is a very impressive and deep gorge.  The water was very clear and flows to the valley with the farm plots.  We looked up a long way.

 

Farm plots

 

House and compound

Street in small town

 

Toudgha Gorge

Toudgha Gorge

 

        Next we went to a lady's home in town and learned about henna and all of us got tattoos.  Henna is grown locally, dried, and crushed into a powder with a pistil and mortar.  The powder is mixed with water to make a paste.  The woman used a syringe with a cut needle and squeezed out designs like she was decorating a cake.  After the henna dries on your skin (with some help from a heater), it is "set" with a "sauce" of garlic, sugar, lime, and black pepper.  Marge got a design on her left hand and I got a bracelet drawn on my wrist.

Materials used in Henna tattoo process

Applying the design

 

Marge's tattoo

 

All hands in

 

     The last stop in this long, busy day was at the rug cooperative.  This one was run by Tuareg nomads known as Blue Men for their use of indigo as sunscreen and bug repellent.  They are traders who used to wander among caravansaries.  Now it is unsafe for them along several borders, especially with Sudan, so they operate out of Tineghir and make five trips a year to trade.  They had many beautiful rugs - better quality than some of the ones we looked at in Fes.  They served us the best Berber whiskey (mint tea) that we have had so far and showed us the "right way" to make it.  Loose black tea is covered in hot water and poured off before more water and a hunk of sugar are added.  The pot is put on the brazier and heated until the tea leaves float to the surface.  Then the fresh mint is added.  The tea was delicious!  Our host then showed us some items the blue men carry on their travels: a large camel leather bag attached over the hump, tent stakes for use in the sand and as a device to make a sick camel regurgitate, and a leather cushion to be filled with sand and used in their tent.  He was entertaining and spoke very good English.

 

Carding wool

Moroccan tea ceremony

 

Moroccan tea ceremony

Sugar

 

Turban for the desert

        End of a very long and very interesting day!

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