Monday, 9/21 - Aboard the Pegasus - Nafplion and the Island of Spetses
At 8:30 AM we rode a bus up to the entrance to the Palamidi fortress. It was built originally by the Venetians, who settled here in the 1300’s. It was used as a fortress to protect against attacks from land or sea until 1821.
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Palamidi Castle
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In general, the stonework is amazing |
Footing is also interesting
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Notice the railing to Gale's left! It doesn't pay to be acrophobic when exploring ruins
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Sentry "box"
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Some of the rifle slots had three paths to the exit opening to increase the angle for the rifle fire |
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Looking down on the town |
We enjoyed roaming up, down, and around the stone steps, ramps, and walls. There is a church/chapel inside the walls as well as rooms for the citizens. We walked down the 999 steps back into town and rewarded ourselves with gelatos from the Antica Gelatereia. Gale had pistachio and Marge had double chocolate and chocolate chip. It was as good as our guide said it would be. |
Local fishing boat
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After lunch on board we began our cruise to the island of Spetses. It was not far away but the sea is more open here and the boat is rocking and rolling quite a lot even when we docked! It was an adventure walking down the short gangplank at Spetses.
Approaching Spetses harbor The Greek flag was designed by the Bavarian king, Otto, and has five blue stripes to stand for the five seas that surround Greece.
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Statue of Bouboulina who was a female hero of the Greek war for independence in the 1820’s. |
Street mosaic constructed of black and white pebbles |
Spetses street scene
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Chimney cover
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We spent our free time wandering around the small town. The streets are narrow and cobble stoned with mopeds and small motorbikes whizzing around. Cars are not allowed on the town streets during summer when the island is full of tourists.
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Bougainvillea |
Bougainvillea
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Our captain decided (and we all strongly approved) to move the boat to a calm, protected bay across from Spetses. We will be anchored here for the night. I think we are just off of Porto Heli.
Tonight was Greek night on board. We had grilled octopus and Ouzo at 7 PM and a dinner buffet with grilled eggplant, salads, cheese, moussaka, naval beans, etc. Dinner was good, the ship is not moving, and sleep will come quickly.
Tuesday, 9/22 - Aboard the Pegasus - Island of Hydra
We left our protected cove during breakfast and motored across to the Island of Hydra.
Hydra is a cute old touristy port very close to the Peloponnese mainland. The houses are all whitewashed each spring (to keep bugs away) and each owner must sweep up the cobblestones in front of their property. Many houses have pots of basil in their open windows to keep flies out. The streets are very irregularly set with twelve streets at the port merging into one at the hilltop nunnery. This reduces the force of the sea winds blowing into the town. No motor vehicles other than a trash truck are allowed on the island so people use donkeys or mules.
A rather exiting exit from Pegasus
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Hydra harbor |
Fishing boats and gear
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Restaurants along the waterfront |
George took us on a short walking tour to acquaint us with the town. We stopped at a Greek Orthodox Church. First George showed us a Gregorian chant book. Every odd line had symbols relating to what note to sing and every even line was the ancient Greek words to be chanted. George sang some for us. He has a wonderful voice. They did not use the bars and staffs of our music. Some of the adornments included what looked like the Russian double eagle. George said that was a Byzantine symbol and the skull and cross bones over the iconostasis was the symbol of the crucified Jesus and not a jolly roger even though this is a seafaring town. Hanging from the chandeliers were silver or tin model boats hung to thank God for a safe journey on that ship. The church decorations were very elaborate and full of silver and gold.
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Church bell tower for the Greek Orthodox Church of the Assumption of the Virgin
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Frescos outside the Greek Orthodox Church of the Assumption of the Virgin (no pictures allowed inside) |
We walked on around the narrow cobbled streets and had to dodge donkeys instead of motorbikes. We wandered some on our own and then returned for lunch on the boat. Afterwards several of us headed around the island and cut back through the town and enjoyed the ocean views, “beaches” that were slabs of cement with ladders going into the water, the neat whitewashed houses with interesting wood doors and small courtyards. It was good exercise and ended with a “bira” at a “taverna.”
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Donkeys patiently awaiting a load
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Donkeys patiently awaiting a load |
Beautiful white washed buildings and streets
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The main mode of transport on the island |
Street scene
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Street scene |
Your choice of language, too
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Beautiful water |
Don't you just love the electrical wiring!
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A very full water tanker
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We watched a tanker, with its deck awash because it was so full, dock and unload water for the town. During tourist season and the dry summer they have to supplement the island’s water supply. At dinner we had champagne and fancy mousse cake to celebrate a fellow tourists’ 40th wedding anniversary.
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Wednesday, 9/23 - Aboard the Pegasus - Island of Poros and Palea Epidavros
During breakfast we sailed on to the Island of Poros, which is separated from the mainland by a very narrow strait. After we backed in to our dock we went for a short walk with George. He showed us the post office, the sweets bakery, and the market. Then we wandered on our own. It is impossible to get lost - just head for the water. We walked up ramps, alleys, and steps to the top of the island where we had views of both sides of the island. The water is a pretty blue green and the sailboats and yachts and white houses make it very picturesque.
Approaching Poros |
Poros' waterfront
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Poros' waterfront |
Greek sign
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Fresh fish market |
Meat market with skinned rabbit and sheep carcasses
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We hiked up to this stone tower on a hilltop overlooking the town and harbor
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Hydrofoil ferry |
After returning to the Pegasus, we got on a little bus and were driven about one mile to an outdoor restaurant on the waterfront. They served us way too much food, but the moussaka was particularly good.
Back on board we had more lecturing on the history of Greece. Kathy also talked about the olives she grows. Olive trees produce every two years. To harvest the olives either mats are placed under the branches and the branches are combed to knock off the fruit, or they prune the tree and pick the olives off later, or they use a long pole to knock olives off high branches. They then have to pick through the stuff on the mats and separate the olives from stems and leaves. They take their sacks of fruit to a community press where the olives are washed, mashed, and squeezed into oil. This creates cold-press, first pressed extra virgin oil - the best kind.
During the lecture we moved on to Palea Epidavros and docked for the night. We were on our own so we walked some around town and checked out the nearby beach. One brave soul went in - maybe I will tomorrow.
Waterfront at Palea Epidavros
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Waterfront and church at Palea Epidavros |
Greek Orthodox Church
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Soccer match on a sand "field" |
About the only campground we saw on the whole trip! |
Camping sign
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Street scene
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Tonight’s dinner was the captain’s dinner. We had wine and/or cocktails and hor d’oeuvres at 7 PM and a six-course dinner at 7:30. The steak and shrimp were good but American, not Greek food. |
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