Sun., 10/17 - Postojna Caves and Ljubljana, Slovenia
This morning we left Italy behind and headed to Ljubljana, Slovenia. Slovenia gained independence from Yugoslavia in a 10-day war in 1995. It has become the richest of the Balkan countries and has expanded into green tourism and outdoor tourism. The bus route took us through low mountains of timber, mostly silver fir, once used for ship masts and what Davide called “rows” - by which he meant “oars.” We saw our first cow and sheep pastures and even deer farms. Deer goulash is evidently a favorite local dish.
The Postojna Caves was the day's first stop. In 2018 our group (Crossroads of the Adriatic) toured the caves. It is a fantastic cave system!
Flag of Slovenia
Slovenia's EU license plate
Postojna Cave entrance
"Train" cars that take you into the cave
On a fence outside the cave
Before a lunch on our own at a small, uncrowded, highway rest stop, we stopped to see the Predjamski Grad or “castle in front of a cave” built in the 1400s. The castle adjoins a sheer rock cliff with access to escape caves and tunnels. There is also a 400-year-old Linden tree by the parking lot.
Predjamski Castle
Halloween
Another interesting sign
At 2 PM our bus arrived at the Elon (Elephant) Hotel in Ljubljana. Davide conducted a "discovery" walk around the old town at 3 PM. The walk included going to the top of Ljubljana's tallest building - a 12-story “sky scraper” - to look at the city from above.
We each got a delicious dish of gelato at Cacao.
At 6 PM the six of us went on a "music tour" of Ljubljana to learn about the classical music culture of the city. The tour was arranged by one of our members who had done it when in Ljubljana three years earlier. Our guide, Metha, was excellent and we were accompanied on our walk by a violinist, Bruno. It was very chilly - Bruno should have gotten a medal for playing in that weather!
The group met Mehta at the statue of France Preseren, a Slovene poet, who wrote a seven verse drinking song, one verse of which became Slovenia’s national anthem. Metha sang us the anthem. It is about peace and the beauty of the country instead of about war, as are so many national anthems.
Mehta told us about the Philharmonic Academy established in 1761 and about its honorary members like Beethoven, Paganini, and Haydn.
Bruno played Beethoven’s “Ode to Joy” - now the anthem of the European Union. Mehta walked us down the Avenue of Composers which is lined with busts of composers who had a connection with Slovenia.
Each time we walked to a new location, Bruno preceded us and was playing the violin as we arrived.
Mehta told us that there are about 23,000 choirs in Slovenia.
Ljubljana Castle at night
Violinist Bruno - notice the gloves!
The Castle above the Philharmonic building
Slovenian Philharmonic building
Emil Adamic, Slovenian composer
University School of Music and Ballet
Statue of Gustav Mahler
Mahler conducted 88 operas and operettas in Ljubljana when he was only 21 years old.
The evening ended with wine and meat, cheese, and bread finger food at a specialty wine bar along the river. It was an interesting and magical evening.
Mon., 10/18 - Ljubljana
This morning a doctor came to the hotel to give us our COVID swab tests necessary to reenter the US. Everyone is still negative for COVID.
Our morning outing included more touring through the city and a nice boat ride on the Ljubljana River. There were some nice fall colors in evidence.
Mall with interesting tile design
Hauptmann House
Galerija Emporium building
Triple Bridge
Market
Market
Market
Milk dispenser
Egg dispenser
Flowers, too
Medieval sundial clock
Local free shuttle bus
Doors of the Cathedral Church of St. Nicholas
Doors of the Cathedral Church of St. Nicholas
School kids learning about their city.
A field trip for the very young
National Library of Slovenia
Designed by Joze Plecnik, a local architect who designed 35 buildings in Ljubljana. The windows peek out like open books and the entrance is dark with heavy doors because you enter in ignorance and work hard to enter to gain the knowledge and light of the reading room.
Manhole cover
Manhole cover
Signs for the "Locksmith Street"
Faces of Locksmith Street - Kljucavnicarska ulica
The "Faces" are found in a channel in the middle of the narrow Locksmith Street. Read the descriptions in the link below - the explanation is better than I can do.
Faces of Locksmith Street - Kljucavnicarska ulica
Monument to Napoleon
A 13th c. monastery created by Crusaders. The monastery has been renovated into a music archive and music venue especially for young vertuosos and opera singers. There is a grand Ljubljana Music Festival in the summer.
Monastery detail
Local street
Decorated bench
Plaque in the memory of one of the Jews who were deported to Dachau during WWII
Our river boat
Boat club
Canoes
Canoe course
Dragon boat
Fall colors
More fall colors
Nice wrought iron and vine structure
In the afternoon, Davide took us on another walk to look at the Opera (and Ballet) House, the National Gallery, the U.S. Embassy, Museum of Natural History, Republic Square and Parliament, and then through Kvakovo, the oldest section of Ljubljana with neat two-story houses and gardens and fruit trees.
Slovenian National Opera and Ballet Theater
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Under renovation
All-wood bicycle - Nice!
University administration building
Sculpture by or to honor Plecnik, the Slovenian architect
A nutrena swimming in the river
Dragon sculpture
The farewell dinner was at Sestica which is the same place we ate at three years ago. The folk dancers only did two short shows between courses and we did not have to join in.
After dinner we packed for our flights to the US and caught a few hours of sleep.
Tues., 10/19 - Ljubljana to Frankfurt to Philadelphia or Minnesota
The alarm went off at 3:30 AM and the group left the hotel at 4:30 for our 7 AM flight to Frankfurt. In Frankfurt we separated and Gale flew to Philadelphia for a 10-day visit with family and friends. Marge flew on the Minneapolis (via Chicago) for a 3-day visit to see her sisters and her college classmates.
All-in-all it was an interesting and safe trip during COVID. Europe has about the same safeguards in place and compliance or non-compliance with COVID as we have in the US. It was nice to be traveling and learning again after so many months of staying home. We met some very nice fellow travelers who we hope to meet again. Malta, San Marino, Trieste, and Ljubljana were the highlights of this trip to the “Undiscovered Adriatic.”
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